From 28 September to 6 October, Paris is a runway. The photographers stand outside the shows, but the most interesting part usually happens once the spotlights go off - when front-row stars swap the seat by the catwalk for a table in a restaurant, café or bar. The good news is that most of those addresses aren't private clubs. They're restaurants and cafés with open doors, on streets anyone can walk down.

Coffee, baguette - and ham

At Cortado café, at 31 Rue Charlot in the Marais, they waited a full 371 days for Rosalía to come. When she finally turned up, during last year's Fashion Week, make-up free and with her hair down, she surprised the owners - Spaniard Elena Martín and her partners - posed for photos with them and signed a T-shirt from the shop. Today the café is one of the most sought-after speciality coffee spots in the Marais, serving Parisians toast with Iberian ham and tomato, a croissant with ham and manchego, and anchovies as a starter. Its success has brought a second address too, Cantina Cortado, on the same street at number 24.

The same week Rosalía also went to OFR Bookshop at 20 Rue Dupetit-Thouars - a bookshop, gallery and exhibition space - where she signed copies of magazines with her covers. During Fashion Week, this is where the city's creative scene gathers.

Lunch in a museum

Loulou, at 107 Rue de Rivoli, is a favourite of the Hadid sisters - Gigi was there with her partner Bradley Cooper last month. The restaurant is inside the Museum of Decorative Arts itself, so lunch easily turns into a visit. The cooking is Italian-Mediterranean, and the terrace is the best spot for some sun after a walk along the Seine.

Afternoon: wine and ice cream

Dua Lipa insists that wine and ice cream go together - and that sometimes it's even essential. The place for that is Folderol, at 10 Rue du Grand-Prieuré on the edge of the 11th arrondissement, where natural wines are served with homemade ice cream in flavours that change every day. For those who don't share her philosophy, there are Italian cured meats, cheeses and focaccia.

Dinner, French-style

Bistrot Paul Bert, at 18 Rue Paul Bert, is famous for its pepper steak. It's a favourite dish of Dua Lipa and her sister Rina, but also a classic of the Paris scene: a neighbourhood bistro, a warm atmosphere and French cooking with character. The menu also features fillet au poivre with homemade fries, sole in butter, and a floating island with pink praline for dessert.

The night: cabaret, burger and chocolate mousse

The night usually starts at Rasputin, at 58 Rue de Bassano in the Golden Triangle - a former Russian cabaret from 1965, now a club hosting some of the most exclusive Fashion Week parties. After midnight, once the shows and cocktails have done their work, everyone heads to Ferdi, at 32 Rue du Mont Thabor, for a burger and mac and cheese. Regulars include the Hadid sisters, Rihanna and Kendall Jenner. No airs and graces, just a small, informal American-style dining room.

To finish, dessert at Chez Janou, at 2 Rue Roger Verlomme, a Provençal restaurant famous for its huge chocolate mousse. Dua Lipa and Callum Turner were photographed here during Haute Couture Week, when they reportedly got engaged. Whether the ring was hidden in the mousse, nobody knows. All we know is that from there they went dancing under the Eiffel Tower.

The funniest thing about this whole celebrity map is how ordinary it is: coffee, a sandwich, a steak, ice cream. The stars in Paris aren't looking for gold on a plate - they're looking for a good bistro in a good neighbourhood. How many of our cafés would turn into an attraction if a world star walked in just once - and why do we need a star to see what we already have?