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The Skin Has a Memory: a Biochemist Explains Why More Acids and Retinoids Destroy It, Not Save It

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The Skin Has a Memory: a Biochemist Explains Why More Acids and Retinoids Destroy It, Not Save It

The skincare industry wants us to believe that more means better - more acids, more retinoids, more peels. Biochemist Paula Rodriguez tears down that myth with a single sentence: "The skin has a memory. When we overdo it with acids or retinoids, its defense mechanism is disrupted."

The problem, she says, is that many interpret irritation as proof the product works. In fact it is the opposite - redness, tightness and peeling are a cry for help, not a sign of success. We live in an "era of overexposure": pollution, blue light from screens, stress. Each of these small aggressions accumulates, and the skin becomes hypersensitive.

Chronic inflammation is the vicious circle. It weakens the skin, is linked to oxidative stress, collagen breakdown and premature aging. According to the data, over 70 percent of adults report sensitive skin - in large part precisely because of aggressive formulas and excessive cleansing that damage the protective barrier.

How to recognize overloaded skin? Dryness and discomfort even though the skin looks fine; makeup that does not sit evenly; more pronounced fine lines; a dull complexion that does not respond even to a good night's sleep; tightness and sensitivity. If this sounds familiar, you probably do not need yet another expensive serum - but a break.

The solution Rodriguez recommends is the opposite of everything the ads whisper to you: simplify. A gentle cleansing gel, a neutral moisturizer, sun protection. Bring back active ingredients carefully - one product every 48 hours. Useful allies are niacinamide, ceramides, centella asiatica, hyaluronic acid and panthenol. Sometimes the best thing you can do for your skin is to stop doing so much to it.