That a woman's hormones affect acne - everyone knows that. That a facial care routine should change throughout the monthly cycle - almost no one practises that. According to dermatologist Lorea Bagazgoitia, cited in the Spanish source: „The drop in progesterone before menstruation can worsen acne in those days."

The cycle, in simple terms:

• Follicular phase (from the end of the period to ovulation): estrogen rises. The skin looks best - hydrated, elastic, even tone. Collagen works at peak.
• Ovulation (around the middle of the cycle): estrogen reaches its peak. The skin glows. This is the „photo-ready" moment.
• Luteal phase (from ovulation to pre-period): progesterone rises, the skin becomes oilier, clogged pores appear.
• Pre-period: progesterone drops sharply, the skin is sensitive. Acne in this phase is the most frequent.
• Menstruation: the skin barrier is compromised, reactivity is at its highest, irritation comes more easily.

What to do in each phase - according to dermatologists:

Follicular phase: this is the moment when the skin accepts active ingredients. Vitamin C, retinol (if you are already on a retinol routine), a mild AHA exfoliant. The skin is stable and can „learn" a new product without irritating.

Luteal phase: focus on sebum regulation. Niacinamide and caffeine are two ingredients that work for normalising oil. Salicylic acid (BHA) is the best one here - it enters the pores, cleans them, and prevents acne from forming before it surfaces.

Pre-period and menstruation: this is not the moment for new experiments. If you put on retinol now, when the skin is reactive, you will pay for it with redness and irritation. Switch to protective routines - ceramides, natural moisturising factors, gentle oils. The goal is not to cure, but to do no harm.

Pregnancy and menopause - two separate chapters. According to pharmacist Héctor Núñez: „Because of the natural menstrual cycle, cyclical hormone fluctuations are produced." In pregnancy melasma is common (dark patches on the face), and the skin needs strict sun protection - SPF 50+, every day, no exceptions. In menopause, estrogen falls long-term, and the result is loss of collagen, elasticity and thickness of the dermis. Here is where peptides, low-concentration retinol and serums that support the barrier come in.

The Balkan recommendation: break the culture of „the same products all year". A woman in her 30s does not need the same routine in the first week of the cycle and in the last. It is not complicated - 4 or 5 small bottles, rotation depending on the day, and more attention on the „critical" days. What the cosmetics industry sells as „universal moisturisers 24/7" is to a large extent marketing. Hormones are not universal. Skin is not universal. Solutions shouldn't be either.