Five pyramids between the Caribbean Sea and the lagoon: the renovated Paradisus Cancún with 773 rooms, ice baths and trips to Chichén Itzá

In Cancún's hotel zone, between the Caribbean Sea and the Nichupté lagoon, stand five enormous pyramids. They're not from the time of the Maya - this is Paradisus Cancún, a Meliá Hotels International resort that borrows its architecture from ancient Mayan buildings. The hotel recently reopened after a complete renovation of its suites and common areas.

The numbers are the kind you print in a brochure: 773 rooms and suites with views of the sea or the lagoon, nine places to eat, seven bars, an ice-cream shop and a coffee corner. The new restaurants are Vibra, a gourmet restaurant with a lively atmosphere, and Kao, serving contemporary Japanese cuisine, while Sal, Capella and Agua Marina - meat, Italian food and Mexican seafood - have been refreshed. There's Yucatecan cuisine too, for anyone who doesn't want to forget where they are.

The hotel's new buzzword is wellness. The concept is called Wellness Designed by Destination and includes a Longevity Suite for recovery and rest, FACE SPAce by Comfort Zone facials, yoga with red-light therapy and a 24-hour YHI Moves gym - with Pilates, functional training, dance, aqua fitness and "sound baths" - plus spinning and ice baths. The day, as envisaged, begins with yoga by the sea, continues with a leisurely breakfast and ends with dinner in Mexican or Japanese style.

A sceptic will ask why anyone flies across the Atlantic to sit in an ice bath. The answer lies outside reception. The Destination Inclusive programme offers workshops on Mexican crafts, making copal incense, traditional music and dance, and tequila and wine tastings. And beyond the hotel there's Isla Mujeres with its Playa Norte beach, the El Rey Mayan site right in the hotel zone, Tulum with its ruins above the sea, and a full-day excursion to Chichén Itzá.

For families there's a Family Concierge, the Aquazone water park with slides, the Kidsdom kids' club and a sports bar. The whole thing is packaged so that guests never have to leave the fence - which is also the biggest trap of resorts like this. The pyramids at the hotel are pretty. The ones at Chichén Itzá are real.