Fatayer, the Triangle Pies of the Levant: 500 Grams of Flour, an Hour's Rest for the Dough and 15 to 20 Minutes at 200 Degrees

Hummus, falafel, couscous, tabbouleh - that's the Middle East we know from menus. Fatayer isn't on the list, and it should be. These are small pies, crisp outside and juicy inside, eaten in Lebanon, Syria, Palestine and Jordan at any time of day, from breakfast to dinner. Anyone who grew up on Balkan pita and burek will recognise them from the first bite, and anyone who knows what meze is will understand why they're on every table.

Three fillings, one shape

The most common filling is spinach with onion, lemon and sumac - a red, fruity spice with a sour, almost citrus flavour. They're also made with spiced beef or lamb, or with local cheeses like akkawi, which in the Balkans can easily be swapped for feta. Spinach fatayer are usually triangular: the dough is lifted on three sides and pinched into three points. There are round and oval versions too, depending on the region.

Ingredients

For the dough: 500 grams of wheat flour, 7 grams of dried yeast, about 250 millilitres of lukewarm water, 3 tablespoons of olive oil, 1 teaspoon of sugar and 1 teaspoon of salt. For the filling, choose one: spinach sautéed with onion and lemon juice, minced meat cooked with onion, tomato and spices, or cheese.

Method

Mix the flour, yeast, sugar and salt. Gradually add the lukewarm water, then the oil, and knead for 8 to 10 minutes until the dough is smooth and elastic. Cover it and leave it to rise for about an hour. Divide it into small pieces and roll each into a circle 10 to 12 centimetres across and 3 to 4 millimetres thick.

Put a spoonful of filling in the middle, lift the three sides and pinch the corners into a triangle so the filling stays sealed in. Arrange them on a tray lined with baking paper and bake in a preheated oven at 200 degrees for 15 to 20 minutes, until cooked through and lightly golden. Let them rest for a few minutes before serving.

The secrets of good fatayer

Don't overdo the flour when kneading - the dough will turn dry and tough. It needs to stay flexible, stretch easily and not tear when you seal it. Keep the filling modest in quantity and not wet, or the pie won't close and the filling will leak in the oven. Many Lebanese cooks make the filling a few hours or a day ahead so the flavours come together. Brush them with a little oil before baking and don't crowd them on the tray, so the heat circulates evenly.

Baked and cooled pies can be frozen, then reheated in the oven until crisp on the outside again. Ottoman cuisine left shared traces from Beirut to Bitola. How many pies do we have to eat before we realise how alike we are?