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Paris fashion month ended, once again, in the monumental Cour Carrée of the Louvre, with Louis Vuitton having the last word. Nicolas Ghesquière presented the spring-summer 2027 collection under the title "Ergonomie", and the contrast was typically his - the Louvre's classical architecture against a set design from a future that hasn't arrived yet.
Behind the retro-futurist aesthetic, though, there was no escape from reality. Quite the opposite. Ghesquière was talking about the present, more precisely about how our relationship with clothes changes when temperatures keep rising. That was the main thread running through the whole collection.
The designer who spent years at Louis Vuitton building an identity of structured, almost architectural pieces took the weight out of them this season. Silhouettes were wrapped in ultra-light fabrics, sheer layers, gauze and silk - materials that move with the body instead of imposing themselves on it. The new Vuitton woman is dressed to get through the city somewhere between the heat and the urban chaos: white semi-sheer dresses, open knits, floaty skirts and jackets that barely touch the body.
Light doesn't mean simple. Ghesquière carried the codes of tailoring and formalwear into almost ethereal materials: coats and jackets were cut from silk chiffon, long dresses got floating trains, and scarves stopped being accessories and became real garments.
The palette followed that feeling of lightness too. White, grey, pastel pink and blue sat alongside darker tones, while iridescent details carried the futuristic accent. Some dresses and skirts were scattered with geometric motifs that caught the light with every step, like small pieces of crystal in motion.
The idea is right and timely: anyone who has spent a July afternoon on a packed city bus knows clothing can be a matter of survival, not just style. Except Louis Vuitton's answer will hang in boutiques whose prices nobody measures against an average wage. Fashion has finally noticed the heat. Will it also notice the price paid by those who endure it without air conditioning?
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