Suede is back this autumn: the material Catherine de' Medici wore as perfumed gloves is now on jackets from Miu Miu, Fendi and Prada

Every autumn fashion sells us something "new", and this autumn the new thing is as old as the Renaissance. Suede, the soft material with a velvety surface, is one of the big trends of the season. It comes from the inner side of the hide, usually lambskin, although it can be made from other leathers too - and that's exactly why it's so soft and gentle to the touch.

Its history is longer than any fashion week. At first it was used mostly for women's gloves, because of its softness and lightness. In the Renaissance, aristocrats such as Catherine de' Medici in France perfumed their gloves with essences to mask unpleasant smells. Over the centuries the material was refined and became one of the most recognisable in fashion.

Now it's back on the runways and on the streets. Miu Miu, Fendi and Prada put it in their latest collections, and suede jackets have taken over street style in Paris, London and New York. It's not just jackets: suede shows up on coats, trousers, dresses, skirts, shoes, belts and bags. The cuts range from seventies-inspired and wide, oversized pieces to structured silhouettes and minimalist design. The colour is classic brown in all its shades, but also black, grey, burgundy and lighter tones.

How do you wear it? For every day - a structured jacket with a crew-neck jumper and wide-leg trousers. For something dressier - a suede jacket over a midi skirt or smart trousers. For the office, stylists suggest wide suede trousers, a white men's-cut shirt and heels in neutral tones. And if head-to-toe suede isn't your thing, a bag, loafers or a belt will do.

Before you spend money on a jacket the runways have declared essential, ask yourself how many autumn days in your city are actually dry. Suede is beautiful, but it doesn't like rain - or the mud on the pavements. Fashion will tell you this is an investment for the season. Centuries of history tell you it's a material for careful hands - and for dry days.