Tiramisu is not just a dessert. In Italy it is a religion, in Macedonia a status symbol at every family gathering, and in the culinary world it is an eternal debate: with eggs or without, with alcohol or without, classic or with variations. Now there is also an answer to the lemon version - and it is good.

Classic tiramisu requires: 80 grams of egg yolks, 120 grams of sugar, 500 grams of mascarpone, 120 ml of espresso and ladyfingers. The yolks are beaten with the sugar until creamy, then the mascarpone is added. The ladyfingers are briefly dipped in cold coffee - not long, or they disintegrate - and layered in the mould. Cream, ladyfingers, cream. In the fridge for a minimum of 4 hours, better overnight. Cocoa before serving. That is all.

The lemon version requires a little more work: first make lemon curd, then a syrup of water, zest and honey. The cream is the same - yolks, mascarpone, sugar. Ladyfingers are dipped in the syrup instead of coffee. Cream, ladyfingers, cream. Lemon curd on top. White chocolate on the side is optional but recommended.

The key rule for both versions is the same: the coffee and syrup must be cold before dipping. Warm liquid plus ladyfinger equals mush. And never skip the four hours in the fridge. Tiramisu is a dessert with patience built into the recipe. Like every good thing.