The patient walks in worried about her under-eye circles. The doctor looks at her and says the problem is partly somewhere else - in the lost support of the cheekbone. "The cheekbone is a supporting structure," says Dr Beatriz Beltrán, an aesthetic physician from Barcelona, and with that the whole logic of the treatment changes.

What the patient sees as a separate flaw - a shadow under the eye, a slackening jawline, one wrinkle - the doctor sees as the consequence of something that gave way elsewhere. "We cannot treat the under-eye circle, the jawline or the wrinkle as isolated elements," she says.

But the most interesting sentence is about what people are actually asking for: "We increasingly see patients who want to look better, but not different." That is a quiet revision of an entire decade in which aesthetic medicine sold transformation rather than maintenance.

The arsenal is familiar - hyaluronic acid placed strategically, collagen biostimulators, tightening technologies like Thermage and Ultherapy. None of that is new. What is new is which part of the face it is aimed at, and to what end.

Is that progress, or just a better sales story? Possibly both. An industry that spent years teaching that more is better is now selling less - and charging the same for less. But the result the patient is asking for is an honest one: not to look like somebody else in the mirror.

Here that is even harder to get, because the market is smaller and the advertising more aggressive. The question worth asking before any procedure is the same one the doctor asks: is what I am looking at the problem, or only the place where the problem shows?