One rule has held for generations and does not change: wedding bands and the engagement ring are bought. They are not rented, not borrowed, and not returned on Monday. Everything else a bride wears - the earrings, the tiara, the necklace, the bracelet - is suddenly an open question, and the new generation of brides is not answering it the way the industry expected.

Earrings are the most expensive piece you yourself see least. Cristina Sancho, who runs the project "With Jewels and Crazy", puts it this way: "Earrings are still the star piece. They have an enormous effect." An effect on the face, on every photograph, on every frame of the video. And then - a drawer.

Which is exactly why that category moved to rental first. Sancho says a sentence that sums up an entire shift in how luxury is viewed: "Renting stops being an economic decision and becomes a smart decision." That is the difference between "I cannot afford it" and "I see no reason to own it". The first is a constraint, the second is a position.

The dividing line, according to the experts' advice, runs roughly like this. You buy what carries symbolism or what will be passed down - the bands, the engagement ring, a piece meant to become a family object. You borrow or rent what serves for one day: tiaras, hair ornaments, necklaces for a minimalist dress, bracelets when the cut draws attention to the arms, and high jewellery that is only ever worn once in a lifetime anyway.

There is a third path, which solves the most common dilemma - what to do with a grandmother's ring that is beautiful but fits nothing in the modern selection. The answer lies in detachable elements: attachments that clip on and off, so the old piece takes on a new look without being altered. The original stays untouched.

Marisa Hernandez, founder of Eme Jewels, describes it as a joining: "We are celebrating the symbolism of two generations coming together with love."

Would a bride around here turn up in borrowed earrings and say so out loud? In the Balkans, jewellery at a wedding long carried a second function - to be seen. Which makes it interesting where this generation is heading: not towards more gold, but towards less, with a story behind it. Weight stops being the measure of value.