Dua Lipa got married, and - surprise - without a white dress. The pop star wed in London to actor Callum Turner in a civil ceremony, dressed in something closer to architecture than a traditional wedding gown. A message that knowingly winks at another bride from more than half a century ago.

The venue wasn't chosen by accident: Old Marylebone Town Hall, the same municipal hall where Paul McCartney, Ringo Starr and Liam Gallagher married before her. When you marry where the legends of British music married, you're already sending a message before you say a word.

The creation was Schiaparelli haute couture, the work of Daniel Roseberry - an ivory jacket with architectural lines, an emphasised waist and a structured silhouette, with an asymmetric skirt and a bodice with white lace detailing. The buttons were custom-made with gold and jewels. The accessories: white gloves, Christian Louboutin heels, a Bulgari Serpenti necklace and a dramatic wide-brimmed hat by Stephen Jones, layered with gold leaf.

The inspiration is unmistakable - Bianca Jagger in 1971, when she married Mick Jagger in an Yves Saint Laurent "Le Smoking" jacket instead of a white dress, with a wide-brimmed hat just like it. Fifty-five years on, Dua Lipa recycles that rebellion, just with a different signature. Callum Turner, for his part, wore a tailored Ferragamo suit.

The couple is announcing a second celebration in Sicily. And the whole story, under the gloss of the brands, is actually as old as fashion itself: real luxury hasn't been the white dress for a long time - it's being able to afford to break the rules, and have everyone read it as style, not as scandal.