The Fronteira Palace in Lisbon: the Largest Collection of 17th-Century Portuguese Tiles Still in Its Original Place, and a Garden of Marble Busts of the Kings

Lisbon is usually told through the yellow tram and the narrow streets of Alfama. But in the Benfica neighborhood, about fifteen minutes on foot from the metro, stands a 17th-century palace that looks as if someone dressed it in porcelain - inside and out.

Construction of the Fronteira Palace began around 1670 as a summer residence for the first Marquis of Fronteira and his wife, Madalena de Castro. After the 1755 earthquake, which destroyed much of Lisbon, it was expanded. Today it is a museum and a national monument - but descendants of the Fronteira family still live in it.

Tiled walls that tell of wars

The main reason to come is the ceramics. The palace holds the largest collection of 17th-century Portuguese tiles that are still in their original place, both in the halls and in the garden. The strongest impression is left by the Hall of Battles, where the tiles depict battles from the Restoration War, through which Portugal regained its independence from Spain. History written on a wall, in blue and white.

The interior can only be seen with a guide. The tour goes through the Hall of Panels, the Hall of the Four Seasons, the Hall of Juno, the library, the Terrace of the Arts and the chapel.

A garden of marble kings

Outside is a story of its own. The formal garden has five fountains and a Gallery of Kings, with marble busts of the Portuguese monarchs lined up above the water. Higher up is the Garden of Venus, and the Nymphaeum, known as Tanque dos Pretos, is surrounded by statues of lesser deities. The gardens can also be explored independently, with or without an audio guide.

The foundation that runs the estate organizes poetry recitals, lectures, courses, literary gatherings and themed walks through the garden, and some rooms are rented out for events. Viewers of the Spanish series "The Promise" recently saw the palace too, as the place where Curro and Ángela spend their honeymoon. Could any of our old houses live like this - as a museum, a stage for poetry and an event venue, with the family still living in it?

Practical: The address is Largo São Domingos de Benfica 1. The palace and gardens cost 17 euros, the gardens with an audio guide 10 euros, and on your own 8 euros. It is open Monday to Saturday and on holidays, and tours in Spanish are at 12:30 and 5 p.m. The nearest metro station is Jardim Zoológico on the blue line, about 15 minutes on foot. Bus 770 also goes there, and there is a small free parking lot in front of the palace.