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Loewe in Paris: draped leather jackets and skirts deliberately left open at the waist - luxury you can finally wear

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Loewe in Paris: draped leather jackets and skirts deliberately left open at the waist - luxury you can finally wear

Fashion, at least according to those who make it, is an act of community. Loewe took that idea literally: for its spring-summer 2027 show, the Spanish house turned the Château de Vincennes in Paris into a huge circular arena on two levels. The space was deliberately reminiscent of history's great stages - the anatomical theatre in Padua, the Globe Theatre in London, the gasometer in Detroit, Milan's La Scala. The message: nothing replaces a live experience. How many of us, though, will ever see this show other than on a screen?

In that arena Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez presented their third collection for the brand founded in Madrid. According to fashion critics, with it the duo has finally found its own recognisable voice in a house with a long and heavy history.

From day one the two designers announced two pillars: top-level craftsmanship and mastery of colour. That remains, but now it gets something unexpectedly grounded. The palette is full of deeply saturated tones, and the draping shapes the silhouette with an almost liquid ease. Still, the real news isn't in the colour but in the turn towards pragmatism: the clothes no longer look like just a concept for a photo shoot, but like a wardrobe you can live in every day.

Leather, as befits Loewe, is at the centre - but lighter than ever. Instead of rigid shapes there are finely draped jackets that softly wrap the torso, playful babydoll dresses and high-waisted skirts deliberately left unbuttoned at the waistband. Leather loses its traditional stiffness and becomes a material for movement.

In accessories, the mastery of leather shows through new, never-before-seen bag shapes, which fashion editors are already calling the next objects of desire for the summer.

The question every big house avoids remains: when luxury starts talking about clothes "for every day", is that an artistic choice or an admission that even the most expensive concepts eventually have to sell? For the reader who watches shows on a screen and chooses clothes according to their wallet, the turn towards the wearable is better news than yet another unreachable installation.