Makeup artist Álvaro Sánchez: after 45 the most common mistake is a thick black line around the eye - and what to use instead

Makeup has no age, but skin does. That's the core message from makeup artist Álvaro Sánchez: after 45 you shouldn't give up makeup, you should change the technique. And the most common mistake he sees is one - "a black line that's far too thick" around the eye, especially on the lower lid.

Sánchez also advises dropping heavy full-coverage foundation and excess powder. For the eyes, his recipe is simple: the under-eye area with little product and light only in strategic spots; eyeshadow lifted slightly towards the outer corner; lashes curled, with mascara mostly on the upper ones; brows in their natural shape, with a gentle lifting effect.

The KIKO Milano team goes a step further. Instead of high-coverage matte formulas and heavy powder - sheer textures, serums, creamy and liquid products. Soft edges, no hard black lines. Eyeshadow, blush and contour placed a little higher than before, blended at an angle of about 45 degrees towards the brow bone. A "floating" crease 1-2 millimetres above the natural one, for a more open look. And above all - hydrated skin, with a little glow on the cheekbones.

The list of mistakes doesn't end with the line around the eye. Sánchez also warns against concealer that's too light, over-drawn lips and badly placed blush. KIKO adds two more: skipping skin prep, and dark, full brows that look harsh.

For a long time the rule was that after a certain age you had to "cover" everything. Experts now say the opposite: less product, softer edges, more skin. Is that liberation at last - or just a new list of rules for next season?