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Entire generations of girls spent their youth with a straightener and a hairdryer, fighting their own curls like bad weather. The trend has turned: the natural look is in, and curly hair, which for a long time wasn't even considered an option, is more and more often worn with pride. But curls don't look good on their own. They need a system.
The first step is the cut. Hairdressers recommend layers that build volume around the face, followed by a care ritual that deeply nourishes, defines the curl, calms frizz and prevents dehydration - in a hair type that is often fine and brittle.
The "curly" method
The method was created by Lorraine Massey and it rests on one thing: deep hydration. Curly hair is naturally prone to drying out. It is more porous, and its spiral shape stops the natural oils from the scalp travelling from root to tip. Followed step by step, the method defines the curl, adds shine and reduces breakage.
1. Gentle washing. "Our curls are naturally dry and shouldn't be dried out even more with lots of salt. Sulphates lift the hair cuticle like sandpaper on wood and irritate the scalp. Ingredients like sodium laureth sulphate can make frizz even worse," Massey explains. So - shampoos with mild formulas.
2. Conditioner. It helps detangle the hair, softens it and prevents breakage while drying. If you also use a mask, apply it before the conditioner - that way the hydration locks in better.
3. Leave-in conditioner. Products that stay in the hair are key to this method, because they hold hydration for longer.
4. Gel or mousse. This is where the "scrunching" technique comes in: damp hair is divided into small sections, then squeezed from the bottom up. That shapes the curl and gives movement and natural shine. A trick: when your hair starts to dry, dampen it again with a water spray.
5. Smart drying. The David Künzle salon is clear: "Curls shouldn't be dried without a diffuser, whether with your head down or up, depending on the volume you want. Its job is to soften the stream of air, so drying is gentler and frizz is reduced." After drying - hands off. The less you touch your hair, the longer the curl holds its shape.
No comb, just fingers
The rule is the same for formal styles. "The point of an updo with curly hair is for the curl to look natural, not made with a curling iron. It's better to bring out the natural shape, dry it with a good diffuser and, once you have a good natural curl, gather it up with your fingers," says Alberto Sangino, stylist and education manager at Llongueras. Combs and brushes are not allowed: you work only with your fingers, holding, lifting and pinching the section wherever you want volume.
The irony is obvious: for decades the industry sold straighteners and straightening products, and now it sells products for curls. The difference is that this time, at least, your hair gets to stay your own.
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