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Anyone who grew up in the Balkans knows the scene: an older man outside a kafana, worry beads rolling through his fingers for hours, with no visible purpose at all. Jonathan Anderson, Dior's creative director, found almost the same image on the other side of the world - and turned it into a spring/summer 2027 collection, shown in the Jardin des Tuileries in Paris.
The inspiration came from the old Chinese practice of wenwan: two walnuts are rolled in the palm until they acquire a smooth, glossy patina. "When I discovered wenwan walnuts, I was reminded of how we can find knowledge and preciousness in nature," Anderson said. Since it is almost impossible to find two identical walnuts, the collection embraced "the asymmetry of nature" as its guiding principle.
You could see it at every step of the runway. Fluid silhouettes, unexpected layers, refined draping. Floral earrings, extremely long, deliberately broke the symmetry of the face. Skirts of sheer chiffon, like scattered petals, were paired with striped men's shirts and tartan scarves. Crumpled and pleated textures went with unstructured jackets, and wide double-breasted blazers were worn over the lightest tulle skirts.
Fashion constantly sells perfection, so there is something almost provocative about one of the most expensive houses in the world saying that beauty lies in what isn't the same. Will asymmetry make it to the street - or stay a privilege for those who can afford a designer-signed imperfection?
The set at the Bassin Octogonal was conceived as a dream wrapped in artificial mist, with camphor trees lining the runway. Their story didn't end with the show: the trees will be replanted in the garden, so they can keep growing.
They are not just décor. The show was dedicated to Mathilde Favier, head of public relations for Dior's womenswear, who died in a car accident in August together with her partner, Nicolas Altmayer. In fashion, where everything lasts a season, the house chose a memorial that grows - her elegance and dedication will live on in every replanted tree.
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