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A second collection in the same year is not handed to just anyone. Leandra Medine, the woman who spent nearly a decade mocking the fashion industry from the inside with her blog Man Repeller, is getting another capsule with Zara, after the April one that sold out fast. The industry has evidently forgiven the critic - or worked out that the critic sells.
The theme of the collection is the moment we like least in a wardrobe: the transition. That few-week nothing when mornings are cold, afternoons are hot, and you still have to get to work. Anyone who has dressed themselves in September knows the scene by heart.
The logic of the collection is inverted from the usual. The top half is deliberately quiet - simple tops in fine knit, without a single detail asking for attention. Everything happens below: embroidered jeans, trousers with buttons, trouser cuts with contrasting materials. One calm piece and one loud one, which in practice means a single pair of trousers can be worn with everything you already own.
Among the individual pieces, the standouts are wide embroidered jeans paired with lace blouses with a mandarin fastening, black trousers in a relaxed cut with a vivid red band down the side, and asymmetric sequinned skirts. Footwear runs from elegant black models with a slim heel to flats in strong colours. The accessories are not accessories - sculptural belts with round rings and XXL choker-style necklaces carry the whole look.
Medine and Spanish fashion are not new to each other: she collaborated with Mango in 2019 and with Cayumas in 2023. On what makes her buy something, she admits herself it is not the volume of what is on offer but the moment - there are places and trips that simply do not inspire her.
Whether it reaches our shops at the same prices and with the same selection is another question entirely - capsule collections usually arrive trimmed in scope in smaller markets. But the idea does not need a collection reference number to apply: a quiet top, one piece below that carries everything, and a belt that makes the difference.
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