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Forty years in a business that lives off declaring, every six months, that everything from the previous six months is obsolete. Hannibal Laguna staged his show in the Crystal Gallery of the Cibeles Palace at Madrid Fashion Week, and the collection is called LUMINAZ - spring-summer 2027.
What he says is more interesting than what he shows: elegance does not understand passing trends. From any other designer that sentence would sound like an excuse for not changing. From a man who has just been named national designer of Madrid Fashion Week, it sounds like a thesis.
The collection works with materials that catch the light and return it in golden reflections. Floral motifs at two extremes - miniature and oversized. Embroidery with detail, jewelled pieces, pearls. Architectural lines against fabrics that flow. Layers of transparency.
All of that translates into a language a Balkan reader understands immediately: these are dresses made by hand that take hours. They are not manufactured, they are worked. And there is the distinction the entire fashion industry blurs with the word "luxury" - luxury today most often means an expensive logo on mass production, and workshops like this are becoming rarer precisely because there is nobody left to pay for the hours.
Madrid Fashion Week this season also features Agatha Ruiz de la Prada with a collection in colour, Juan Vidal with a sportswear inspiration, and Colombia's Agua by Agua Bendita as winner of the international designer award, which brought embroidery with flowers from Medellin. Different languages, the same point - an instantly recognisable signature.
The question left by a show spanning forty years of work is not whether the dresses will sell. It is whether anyone will know how to make them in twenty years. Because a trend is copied within a week, while embroidery demands a craft that takes years to learn and nobody is paying for those years of learning.
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