Autumn in the Balkans smells of roasted peppers and baked apples - one in the yard, the other in the oven. The apple is queen of the fruit bowl this season, and baked it becomes one of the oldest and simplest homemade desserts. This is the sweeter version: with honey, sugar and butter, which makes it an occasional treat rather than an everyday one.

The recipe also calls for a little sweet anise liqueur. Baking will cook off most of the alcohol, but if you want a completely alcohol-free version, swap it for a splash of apple juice - or just leave it out.

Why a firm, tart apple

The original recipe uses the Spanish reineta variety, considered one of the best for baking. Its flesh stands up to the heat without falling apart, yet stays soft and juicy. It also has a tartness that balances the honey and sugar, so the dessert doesn't turn cloying. As it bakes it develops sweeter, more aromatic notes. The logic works at any market stall: pick a firm apple with a little acidity, not a mealy, overly sweet one.

Ingredients (for 4 apples)

• 4 apples (reineta or another firm, tart apple)
• 40 ml sweet anise liqueur
• 40 ml honey
• 20 g sugar
• 10 g cinnamon
• 40 g butter
• jam (optional)

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 200 °C.
2. Wash and dry the apples.
3. Cut off the top, the "cap", and set it aside.
4. Trim a tiny slice off the bottom too, just enough for the apples to stand steady.
5. Remove the core with an apple corer and arrange the apples in a baking dish.
6. Pour over the liqueur, then the honey, and sprinkle with a little sugar and a pinch of cinnamon.
7. Put a knob of butter in the centre of each apple.
8. Cover them with their "caps".
9. Bake for an hour at 200 °C. If the tops start to brown too much, cover the dish with aluminium foil.
10. Before serving, spoon over the baking juices and, if you like, a little jam.

The little things that make the difference

Don't peel them - the skin holds the shape, softens as it bakes and carries much of the flavour. Don't cut too much off the bottom, or the juices and filling will leak out. Keep an eye on the oven towards the end: the time depends on the size and ripeness of the apples, and they are done when they are soft to the point of a knife. The juice left in the dish is a concentrate of apple, honey, butter and anise, so don't throw it away. And a little apricot, peach or plum jam goes beautifully with the apple's tartness. Grandmothers knew all this long ago. Now you know why it works.